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Cooking for One

Canned Beans and Dried Beans Trade Money for Time

Dried beans cost a fraction of canned per serving but require soaking and an hour of cooking, and the choice is really about which resource is scarcer that week.

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Beans are the cheapest substantial protein in an American grocery store, and they come in two forms that differ by roughly an order of magnitude in price. The gap is entirely explained by who does the cooking and who stores the water.

You are paying to have water added and shipped

A can of beans is mostly liquid, and the beans inside have already been hydrated and cooked. The manufacturer bought the dried beans, added water, heated the can under pressure and shipped the result.

Dried beans have had the water removed, which is why a one-pound bag weighs little and yields several times its volume once cooked. You are buying the same food without the packaging, the processing or the freight on the water.

The price difference per finished serving is substantial and consistent, which is unusual in a grocery store where most savings depend on sales and store brands.

Soaking is about even cooking, not just speed

A dried bean rehydrates from the outside inward. Dropped straight into boiling water, the outer layers soften and split while the center is still hard, which is where blown-out skins come from.

An overnight soak in cold water lets the moisture reach the middle before any heat is applied, so the bean cooks uniformly. A shorter hot soak, boiling briefly then resting off the heat, does much the same job in an hour.

Old beans resist rehydration regardless of method. A bag that has sat in a pantry for a very long time can refuse to soften at all, which is a storage problem rather than a technique problem.

Salt and acid behave differently than the folklore suggests

Salting the soaking water and the cooking water seasons the bean throughout rather than only on the surface, and it helps the skins stay intact rather than toughening them.

Acidic ingredients are the ones that genuinely slow softening. Tomatoes, vinegar and citrus added early will keep beans firm for a long time, so they belong at the end of the cooking rather than the start.

The cooking liquid left behind is worth keeping. It is starchy and seasoned, and it thickens a soup or a pan sauce in a way that plain water cannot.

Cooking a whole bag is the point for one person

An hour of mostly unattended simmering produces far more than one meal, which makes the time cost per portion small. Cooking a single portion of dried beans is not worth doing.

Cooled and packed into portions with some of their liquid, they freeze well and thaw into whatever you are making. That converts the batch into the convenience the can was offering.

Canned beans still earn their place for the night when nothing was planned. Draining and rinsing them removes most of the packing liquid, which is thick, salty and dulls the flavor of anything it joins.

Questions readers ask

How much should a store cupboard cost to set up?

It is built over several shops rather than in one, which spreads the cost and stops you buying things you will not use. Add two or three items each time rather than attempting the whole list at once.

Are dried pulses worth it over tinned?

They are cheaper per portion and better in texture, and they need soaking and long cooking. For one person the practical answer is often to cook a large batch of dried ones and freeze them in portions.

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Nusrat Jan
Contributing writer, Bachelor Only

Nusrat writes about cooking for one and hates recipes that serve six.

Also by Nusrat Jan