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Fixing Things

What Actually Belongs in a First Toolkit

Two hundred piece toolkits are sold on the number rather than the contents. About a dozen items cover almost every repair a tenant is entitled to attempt.

Electric screwdriver with black case placed near entrance of garage with boxes of instruments on sidewalk with grass on street
Photograph by Anete Lusina via Pexels
Editorial note. Independent reporting and analysis. Nothing here is sponsored or paid for. How we work.

This is written to be used rather than admired. Each section below is a decision about a basic home toolkit, and each one has a default.

Before you start

  • Buy the tools you need for a specific job rather than a set chosen by a marketing department.
  • A poor screwdriver damages screws, which turns a small job into a large one.
  • Anything involving fixed wiring, gas or structure is not a toolkit problem.

The dozen that get used

A claw hammer, a set of screwdrivers, an adjustable spanner, pliers, a utility knife and a tape measure cover the majority of jobs. Add a spirit level, a torch, a pencil, an assortment of screws and wall plugs, and a roll of strong tape. A cordless drill with a driver bit is the one power tool worth owning, though many tenancies restrict what you may drill into.

That is roughly a dozen items and it fits in one small box, which matters because a toolkit you cannot carry stays in the cupboard. Everything beyond that list should be bought for a specific job, at which point you will know exactly what you need.

Screwdrivers, and why cheap ones cost money

A screwdriver tip that does not fit the screw head properly rounds out the recess, and a rounded screw is genuinely difficult to remove. Screws come in several head patterns, and the common ones are not interchangeable even though they look similar. A driver set with several sizes of each common pattern is more useful than a single driver with a bit holder for occasional work.

Hardened tips hold their shape, which is the main difference you are paying for and the one you notice immediately. Match the driver to the screw, push firmly while turning, and most stripped screws never happen in the first place.

Fixings, and why the wall decides

The screw matters far less than what it is going into, and getting that wrong is the most common domestic DIY failure. Solid masonry needs a drilled hole and a plug sized to the screw, while a hollow plasterboard wall needs a fixing designed to spread load behind the board. A plain plug in plasterboard will pull straight out under load, taking a chunk of the wall with it.

Tap the wall to hear whether it is hollow, and use a detector before drilling anywhere, since cables and pipes run in predictable but not guaranteed routes. Never drill above or below a socket or switch, or beside a light fitting, since those are the zones where cables run vertically.

Tools worth buying when the job appears

A basin wrench, a pipe wrench and a set of Allen keys each solve exactly one category of problem and are useless otherwise. A stud detector, a wallpaper scraper and a caulking gun are the same, and all are cheap when you actually need them.

Buying tools speculatively fills a cupboard with things you cannot identify two years later. For a one-off job, borrowing or hiring is often cheaper than buying, particularly for anything larger than a drill.

The exception is safety equipment, which should be bought before it is needed rather than skipped because the job looked small.

Safety kit that costs almost nothing

Safety glasses are the single most worthwhile item, since eye injuries from drilling and hammering are common and permanent. Work gloves prevent most of the cuts and splinters that make people give up on a job halfway through. A dust mask matters for anything that produces fine dust, and old buildings can contain materials that require professional assessment before disturbance.

By the second month, if you suspect asbestos in an older property, stop, do not drill or sand, and get professional advice, since this is a serious and regulated hazard. A small first aid kit in the same box as the tools is the sort of thing that seems excessive until the first time it is needed.

Where the toolkit stops

Anything involving fixed electrical wiring is for a qualified electrician, and in many countries certain electrical work is legally restricted. Anything involving gas pipework or gas appliances is for a registered gas engineer, without exception and in every jurisdiction. Structural work, including removing or cutting into walls, needs professional assessment because the consequences of being wrong are severe.

Once the deposit is down, in rented accommodation most of these are the landlord's responsibility anyway, and attempting them yourself can breach the tenancy. A good toolkit is defined as much by the jobs it tells you to hand over as by the ones it lets you finish.

The takeaway

Twelve good tools in one box, safety glasses on top, and a clear line where the professionals start.

A home that works is a set of small systems, not one big clean.

Questions readers ask

Is a big boxed toolkit ever worth buying?

Occasionally as a starting point, and most of the piece count is sockets and bits you will never use. Buying eight good tools individually usually costs the same and works better.

Do I need a drill in a rented flat?

Only if your agreement allows you to fix things to walls, which many restrict. Check before buying, and ask in writing rather than assuming.

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Owais Bhat
Contributing writer, Bachelor Only

Owais writes about bills, deposits and household admin.

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